Where to eat in Paris

Unforgettable meals in the City of Light

Back in September, we embarked on a 2-week trip to Paris and the Côte d’Azur.  In hindsight, I feel completely ashamed to admit that my expectations heading into the trip were lower than those of prior vacations to Europe and Asia.  What heavily influenced my misperceptions were my outdated memories - circa 15+ years ago - from the college student days. The City of Light (and love) could not have been dreamier and we’re already talking about a return trip in the near future.

One of our favorite ways to experience cities and cultures is through food.  In advance of any trip, a significant amount of time is spent researching restaurants - reading guides, searching for “off the beaten path” recommendations, and combing through reviews. While consuming incredibly delicious bites reflective of the local cuisine is absolutely a highlight, we also experience so much joy through our conversations with the restaurant teams - learning more about fresh, in-season ingredients and their takes on nearby hot spots.

So, here’s our Paris short list of the true highlights. Just writing this nearly made me buy a return plane ticket.

If you’re looking for a white tablecloth Michelin-star experience…

Restaurant PAGES is tucked away on a quiet street quite close to the Arc du Triomphe in the 16th arrondissement.  Chef Teshi, a self-described perfectionist, studied in Japan and continued learning the craft in Tokyo-based French restaurants before moving to France.  The pre fixe menu delivers thoughtful and inventive dishes that deliver next-level flavor.  The kitchen is compact and open, so guests can see the chefs at work - the way in which they quietly collaborate is unlike anything we’ve experienced in a restaurant.  And the sommelier and service only further elevated the already phenomenal tasting experience.  This is truly our most memorable meal in Paris.

If you can’t score that reservation at Septime (and even if you can)…

Be sure to secure a reservation at Geosmine.  We were fortunate enough to try both restaurants and agreed that Geosmine had an edge.  The 11-course tasting menu is a 3-hour experience, so be sure to come hungry and pace yourself - especially since the desserts are just as much a highlight as the food itself.  The flavor combinations were unlike anything we’ve encountered, and were always spot on.  Another logistical advantage is that you can book this spot months out, allowing you peace of mind as your trip nears.

For classic French fare with an international twist…

Frenchie was our second dinner in Paris and we were absolutely blown away - it set the bar high, giving us the early signals that we were going to be in for a treat throughout our trip.  The restaurant offers two seatings per night and their menu is a celebration of French food with international influences.  Chef Greg Marchand was an absolute delight.  Outside of supporting local purveyors, he owns a number of restaurants across the street and next door, making Rue du Nil his spot.

For an unforgettable lunch…

Mokonuts seems to be making the rounds on a number of Paris restaurant lists, and for good reason.  The very intimate establishment in the 11th arrondissement is run by a Japanese-Lebanese couple (Moko and Omar) and only open for breakfast and lunch.  Due to the fact that the restaurant seats less than 20 at a time, reservations are definitely necessary.  While we were enjoying our meal, we witnessed many attempted walk-ins turned away.  The menu is small and changes daily, filled with fresh, mouthwatering options cooked with incredible skill - Omar was previously at Daniel in NYC.  And Moko, who easily walks miles upon miles in a given day within the small space (honestly, Hoka needs her to front their next campaign) is known for her baked goods, so you can’t miss out on dessert.  Once our tummies were full, we requested the cookies to go and thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon snack.

For the best street food…

While we did try L’as Du Falafel, we found ourselves having a stronger preference for crepes.  These were often our mid-day bite as we were trying to maximize our time on foot across different neighborhoods.  Of all the stands we tried, our favorite was in the 6th arrondissement and called Creperie des Arts.  Not all crepe stands make the actual crepe fresh and fortunately this one did.

For the best croissant…

This was a tie for us, yet in some way the two patisseries are too different to compare.  Both La Maison d’Isabelle and Mamiche have towering selections from which to choose.  Expect a line at both, though the wait will likely be longer and slower-going at Mamiche.  

Other honorable mentions include our meals at Septime, Clamato (owned by Septime, walk-ins only), and Eels. Though the focus of this post was really on the standouts.

In some ways I feel I should apologize for a complete lack of food imagery, but I didn’t want to spoil anything, and was also way too busy eating to take my own photos!

x

jz

Images | 1 | @b.g.mckay | 2 - 3 | PAGES | 4 | Geosmine | 5 - 6 | Frenchie | 7 | Mokonuts | 8 | David Lebovitz | 9 | Chez Moustache | 10 | @b.g.mckay | 11 | Le Bonbon

_________________________

Looking for a gift? Check out these female-founded options across capsule wardrobe fashion, luxe style, beauty, home decor, food, and general gifting

Need a gift for your favorite guys? You’ll find recommendations here and here

Read more about my morning with stylist Allison Bornstein IRL - part 1 and part 2

Packing tips for your upcoming trip can be discovered here, plus options and accessories for the beach, sunny cities like Miami, and perfect summer totes for every occasion

And if you’re a modern classics lover like me and seeking timeless pieces, you’ll love this analysis of Camille’s style from Emily in Paris, plus this and this. And if you’re a fan of denim on denim, look no further